On a summer’s evening, the veil of dusk gradually enshrouds Taipei 101, as the lights of the bustling city come on. But not far away, at the foot of Elephant Mountain, the sounds of downtown are soon supplanted by frog calls. Listen! The interweaving sounds of croaking and ribbeting create a mixed frog chorus.
It may come as a surprise to you, but Taiwan at night is a rare frog watching paradise.
This July, the Taipei City Government designated six easily accessible mountain trails as frog watching trails. One of them, Elephant Mountain Trail, starts at Zhongqiang Park, which is located outside Xiangshan MRT Station at the end of the Xinyi Line. It’s adjacent to office buildings and multi-million-dollar luxury homes, placing it amid prime real estate.
The other designated trails are Tianmu Old Trail in the Shilin District, Dagouxi Trail in the Neihu District, Xianjiyan Trail in the Wenshan District, and Tiger Mountain Creek Trail and Tiaomi Old Trail in the Xinyi District.
The Taipei tree frog uses its suction-cup toes to nimbly climb on branches and leaves. This frog amply demonstrates its ability to do the splits.
What’s so special about urban frog watching?
Yang Yi-ju, associate professor of natural resources and environmental studies at National Dong Hwa University, explains that there are over 6,000 species of frogs and toads in the world. Though only 33 of them are found in Taiwan, the country ranks top in the world for frog population density.
Even more interesting is that a third of Taiwan’s frog species are tree frogs. These include the Taipei tree frog (Rhacophorus taipeianus), the Mientien tree frog (Kurixalus idiootocus), and the farmland tree frog (Rhacophorus arvalis). The toes of tree frogs are shaped like suction cups, enabling them to climb nimbly among leaves and branches. Their skin color varies from light to dark green depending on the environment, and they’re quite delightful in appearance. “Taiwan really is a frog watching paradise,” says Yang.
Yang, hailed as the “frog princess,” has traveled to many countries to study frogs. She says that though Africa is indeed a wildlife paradise, nobody dares venture out after nightfall for fear of attack by wild animals. And in places like Thailand or Sarawak, Malaysia, poor signage means that you could spend five or six hours looking for the right path, so a frog watching trip there often ends up like a journey through a maze.
Moreover, when frogging in countries that, though rich in natural resources, are underdeveloped, you risk contracting dengue fever from mosquito bites. So the safest, most convenient and most suitable place for family frog watching is Taiwan.
“And now with the MRT system in Taipei, frog watching trails are easily accessible. They’re like your own back yard,” says Yang.
During the tadpole stage, the ornate narrow-mouthed frog (Microhyla ornate) is translucent, glittering in the light.
Places that are swampy with ample vegetation cover make good habitats for frogs, but not every species of frog can be found everywhere in Taiwan. For example, the Taipei tree frog depends on rainwater from the northeasterly monsoon to provide a breeding medium, so its habitat is limited to northern and central Taiwan.
Each region of Taiwan has its own primary and secondary frog species. With prior knowledge of the ecology of frog habitats you’ll know which frog species you’ll expect to find. This way you won’t come back from a frogging trip disappointed.
For instance, Fuyang and Zhongqiang Parks in downtown Taipei are both considered hallowed ground for the Taipei tree frog in the minds of frog lovers. But if you go, don’t look just for Taipei tree frogs: make sure you don’t forget other frog species such as Brauer’s tree frog (Polypedates braueri) and Günther’s frog (Hylarana guentheri).
For a fun and educational frog watching trip, you would do well to study frog field guides; you can also find recordings of different frog species’ calls online. But more pro-level frog watching activities are also available, led by expert guides.
For example, on the second and fourth Saturdays of each month, Yang Yi-ju alternates between the Waziwei wetland in Bali, New Taipei City, and Taichung Metropolitan Park in Taichung, leading groups (often of more than 20 people) on frog watching excursions, where they keep track of frog species. And Su Shengxiong, a retired elementary-school science teacher who has championed environmental education for years, now trains local frogging volunteers to teach visitors to Zhongqiang Park and Elephant Mountain Trail about the local frogs and natural ecology.
During the April to September mating season of Brauer’s tree frog, one often can see several males vying to mate with a single female.
Breeding season is the best time for frog watching. Most frog species mate in the summertime, but the Taipei tree frog, the darling of Taiwanese frog lovers, mates only from December to March, so their mating calls aren’t audible during summer nights.
“The first tip to frog watching is to listen carefully to their calls. This is how you can determine their position and find them,” says Su, sharing his experience.
“It’s not easy. It’s really not easy,” says Su. Even after repeated listening to recordings of frog calls available online, when you arrive at the frogging site it’s hard to avoid getting the calls mixed up.
The common Chinese tree frog is the only frog in Taiwan belonging to the genus Hyla.
If frog watching in the city isn’t your cup of tea, you can take a stroll on the forest trails of Yangmingshan and enjoy a frogging trip truly free from the disturbance of noise. Last year, Yang Yi-ju mapped out 16 frog watching trails there. She especially recommends the Miantianping Trail, for which the Mientien tree frog is named, and the Erziping Trail, which connects to it. Common to this area are the Taipei tree frog, Eiffinger’s tree frog (Kurixalus eiffingeri), the common Chinese tree frog (Hyla chinensis) and the Bankor toad (Bufo bankorensis).
Yangmingshan’s Zhuzihu area, known throughout Taiwan for its calla lily fields, is another superb frog habitat because of all the ponds. Here, you can find the common Chinese tree frog, the Indian cricket frog (Fejervarya limnocharis), the olive frog (Babina adenopleura), the Taipei tree frog, and Eiffinger’s tree frog. It’s a rich resource for frog watching.
Taxonomically, toads are actually frogs, belonging to the order Anura. But popularly, toads are distinguished by their coarse skin, short legs and slow movements, while frogs have smooth, moist skin and slender limbs built for jumping. Says Yang, a 2012 survey of Yangmingshan National Park found 19 frog and toad species, well over half of Taiwan’s 33 species. With such a high share of species, this place is clearly a prime breeding ground for frogs.
Taiwan is truly a frog watching paradise, and Taipei is the most convenient place in Taiwan for frogging. Whether you live in Taipei or are just visiting, don’t forget that every day is Frog Day.
- TimesAny time of year, but mating season is best (summer, for most species).
- EquipmentRain shoes, river tracing shoes or running shoes, long-sleeved shirt, long trousers, hat, flashlight.
- RulesKeep quiet, step gently, don’t harm the habitat, don’t catch or play with frogs.
- Places to lookEdge of water, tree roots, fallen leaves, grass, leaves (giant taro, butterfly ginger), trees.
- OtherWhen frogging at night, beware of snakes. Use mosquito repellent spray to prevent mosquito bites. source: Yang Yi-ju and Yang Yin-xun; compiled by Sam Ju
The inside of the thighs of Moltrecht’s green tree frog (Rhacophorus moltrechti) are bright red, as if it’s wearing red underwear.
Guided by scholars, interested members of the public carry out a survey of frog ecology in the wetlands of Waziwei in Bali, New Taipei City.