The Idyll of Hsilo

Hsilo is a small town in Yunlin County in south-central Taiwan which still preserves an idyllic rustic atmosphere in the midst of the new highly industrialized cities in the Republic of China. It marks the site where immigrants from the China mainland first arrived in Taiwan and named the area "Chianan (south of Chiayi County) Barn."

Since its founding, Hsilo has been dominated by the Choshui Chi (River) on whose estuary it lies. With a length of 176 kilometers, Choshui Chi is the longest river in Taiwan and runs from the central mountain range to the western coast. It has been regarded from time immemorial as the dividing line for Taiwan's crops-rice to the north, and sugar cane to the south.

Hsilo was given its current name more than 300 years ago, based on the Dutch name of "Sorean." In the Manchu (Ching Dynasty) period, Hsilo was a major traffic and postal center as well as a military base town. As a result, a rest house was provided for people passing through.

Among the first public works projects to be undertaken in the vicinity of the town was the construction of a reservoir in the reign of Emperor Kang Hsi of the Ching Dynasty, which eventually irrigated more than 1,000 hectares of land. A second reservoir was established during the reign of Emperor Chien Lung, which irrigated five times the area.

One hundred years of prosperity began for Hsilo when the Emperor allowed immigrants to settle and open up the small town. When Taiwan was recovered from Japanese occupation, Hsilo was officially included in Yunlin County.

As about 80 percent of the 5,000-hectare area around the town consists of farmland, and about 70 percent of its 51,000 inhabitants are farmers, Hsilo has inevitably become a leading agricultural center in Taiwan.

Most of its residents are descendants of Chang Liao, who during the Manchu rule organized a self-defense system known as chi kan (literally seven tribes) by stationing his troops at seven different places. Grand religious festivities are held every year at the Matsu (Goddess of the Sea) Temple in Hsilo to strengthen contacts among the Chang Liao clan.

A shrine has been installed for the Chang Liaos to worship their ancestors in Hsilo known as the "Chung Yuan Tang (hall)," which is the largest of its kind in the country. Rising among ancient trees and green paddy fields, the Chang Liao shrine has a majestic bearing and ornate engravings. Within the compound of the shrine, ancestral tablets are placed for the Chang Liao to worship their forefathers. During the spring and autumn services, all the Chang Liao clan returns to revive the family traditions.

Hsilo is the cradle of the martial arts in Taiwan. In former days, its inhabitants had to practice kung fu to protect themselves and their town from outside aggression. Of all the great kung fu masters in the town, Liu Ming-shan, founder of Cheng Hsin Se, was a master of Shao Lin and medical science, and his school for martial arts used to be the most renowned in the country. Today, some masters at the school in Hsilo spend their mornings, evenings and holidays teaching interested people shadow boxing, fencing and stick fighting free of charge.

Hsilo is also famous for its literary traditions. The Cheng Wen Shu Yuan (school) established in the Ching dynasty was laid out with a garden in front and divided into front and rear halls, flanked by side rooms. An incense table was placed in the front hall for students to worship at. Sacrifices are offered to Han Yu (a literary giant in the Tang dynasty), Confucius, and Chu Hsi (a great scholar of the Sung dynasty) in the rear hall. Poetry clubs and classrooms have been established at the school to promote education. In addition to this oldest institution, the town has many time honored temples which give it a classical appearance.

The most important project ever undertaken by Hsilo is perhaps its great bridge. Construction started in October 1937, during the Japanese occupation of the island, and before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor two years later, had completed 32 supports. Construction came to a halt when the Japanese sent the equipment and materials to Hainan Island. The bridge was not completed until December 1952, after Taiwan was recovered from Japan.

With a length of 1,939.02 meters, and a width of 7.32 meters, the Hsilo Bridge, which connects Changhua and Yunlin counties, used to be the longest in the Far East, and the second longest in the world. It has contributed greatly to the transportation network, national defense and economy of the island. Today, however, the bridge is overloaded with traffic, and a new Sino-Saudi Arabian Friendship Bridge with a length of 2.3 kilometers will be completed by the end of July this year to reduce the burden. The Hsilo Bridge, however, will always remain as a "spiritual castle" for the townsfolk.

In downtown Hsilo, hotels, department stores, and shops for food, agricultural products, electrical appliances and all the necessities of daily life are found in profusion.

Public facilities including post office, telecommunications bureau, a Taiwan Power Company branch, a waterworks, police station, health center, town hall, public service station, farmers' associations and schools have been established. There are eight primary schools, three junior high schools and a senior high school in the town.

Early this year, the government appropriated US$555 million to promote grass roots construction projects in Taiwan over the next three years. Under this program, work on improving streets, ditches, and lamps, and setting up a gymnasium and activities center has started in Hsilo. A program to improve the living standards of low-in-come family into a "well-to-do" one has been worked out. The Hsilo town council helps low income families to receive professional and handicraft training, and provides them with medical treatment, housing, small capital loans to start businesses and scholarships for children.

Nearby, golden paddy fields lie dormant under the noonday sun. Irrigated by water from the Choshui Chi, the rice in the Hsilo area is especially sweet, fragrant and tasty.

Besides rice, the main products of Hsilo are vegetables, watermelons, garlic, peanuts, asparagus, and mushrooms. An 80-hectare specialized district for vegetables has achieved the highest yield among all 11 such districts in Taiwan. To prevent damage from the sun, wind, pests, the farmers cover the vegetable fields with green nylon nets, creating a characteristic pastoral landscape.

The most famous specialty of Hsilo is perhaps its soy sauce. There are at least seven or eight soy sauce factories in the town, the most famous of which is the Wan Chuan Soy Sauce Co. Its president, Chuan In-lei, pointed out that the water from Choshui Chi coupled with ideal temperatures and humidity account for the high quality.

Though residents of Hsilo are prosperous, they lead frugal lives. Most families make do with a set of simple furniture and an outdated television set. The friendly townsfolk, however, will always welcome visitors with a cup of tea, and an open and hearty conversation.

[Picture Caption]

Though a new Sino-Saudi Arabian Friendship Bridge will be completed soon, the Hsilo Bridge crossing the Choshui Chi will remain a main north-south traffic link.

1-3. A shrine for the Chang Liaos to worship their ancestors at Hsilo known as the "Chung Yuan Tang," is the largest of its kind in the country. Rising among ancient trees and green paddy fields, the Chang Liao shrine has a majestic bearing and ornate engravings. 4. Fu Hsin Kung, a century-old Matsu temple. Cheng Wen School (6) and the tablet inscribed "literary master for thousands of Years" (5).

1. Hsilo is an idyllic, prosperous, and serene town. 2. The graveyard of Liu Ming-shan, founder of Cheng Hsin Se, has become a tourist attraction. 3. In downtown Hsilo, department stores and shops providing all the necessities of daily life are found in profusion. 4. Hsilo High School, the highest educational institution in the town.

1 & 2. A specialized district for vegetables has achieved the highest yield among all 11 such districts in Taiwan, and provides vegetables for the local market. 3. Watermelons are a specialty of Hsilo.

1. The most famous product of Hsilo is soy sauce. 2. The black beans used to make the sauce. 3. Hsilo is the cradle of the martial arts in Taiwan. A master is seen here practicing fencing. 4 & 5. Old men in Hsilo playing Chinese musical instruments and chess together in their spare time.

Though a new Sino-Saudi Arabian Friendship Bridge will be completed soon, the Hsilo Bridge crossing the Choshui Chi will remain a main north-south traffic link.

A shrine for the Chang Liaos to worship their ancestors at Hsilo known as the "Chung Yuan Tang," is the largest of its kind in the country. Rising among ancient trees and green paddy fields, the Chang Liao shrine has a majestic bearing and ornate engravings.

A shrine for the Chang Liaos to worship their ancestors at Hsilo known as the "Chung Yuan Tang," is the largest of its kind in the country. Rising among ancient trees and green paddy fields, the Chang Liao shrine has a majestic bearing and ornate engravings.

A shrine for the Chang Liaos to worship their ancestors at Hsilo known as the "Chung Yuan Tang," is the largest of its kind in the country. Rising among ancient trees and green paddy fields, the Chang Liao shrine has a majestic bearing and ornate engravings.

Fu Hsin Kung, a century-old Matsu temple. Cheng Wen School.

and the tablet inscribed "literary master for thousands of Years.

and the tablet inscribed "literary master for thousands of Years.

Hsilo is an idyllic, prosperous, and serene town.

The graveyard of Liu Ming-shan, founder of Cheng Hsin Se, has become a tourist attraction.

In downtown Hsilo, department stores and shops providing all the necessities of daily life are found in profusion.

Hsilo High School, the highest educational institution in the town.

A specialized district for vegetables has achieved the highest yield among all 11 such districts in Taiwan, and provides vegetables for the local market.

Watermelons are a specialty of Hsilo.

Watermelons are a specialty of Hsilo.

The most famous product of Hsilo is soy sauce.

The black beans used to make the sauce.

Hsilo is the cradle of the martial arts in Taiwan. A master is seen here practicing fencing.

Old men in Hsilo playing Chinese musical instruments and chess together in their spare time.

Old men in Hsilo playing Chinese musical instruments and chess together in their spare time.