Hidden Waters in the Mountains:

Chen Jung-wei, associate professor in the Taiwan Hot Spring and Renewable Resources Center at Chia Nan Pharmacology University, says that there are hot springs at roughly 130 locations in Taiwan, and most of them are undeveloped wild springs. He explains that these hot springs are most often found in river valleys, along rock faces, or on the seacoast, each with its own flow characteristics. Because of Taiwan’s many high mountains and deep river valleys with varied geology, it has a high concentration and diversity of wild hot springs, which is very appealing to international visitors.

Movable springs

The Jinlun Hot Springs in Taimali, Taitung County, are located at the intersection of sedimentary sand and gravel on one hand and metamorphic rock on the other. Easily identified and easy to reach, they attract large numbers of travelers each year. However, in 2024, due to heavy rains brought by typhoons, not only was the stream choked by sediment, the streambed even changed direction, meaning that we could only reach the spring outflow area by taking a long detour. Led by Chen Jung-wei we cross several rivers and streams, but when we see that the two sides of a riverbed are of markedly different colors and there is an area of deep purple metamorphic rock, we know we are near the spot.

Chen asks us to look for “places that look as if there is no water, but where water in fact flows out.” Jinlun has plentiful geothermal resources, but the hot spring waters flow underground beneath the streambed. At the side of the streambed we find a small hole containing warm water, and on digging down with our bare hands we discover that the deeper we dig, the hotter the temperature becomes. Though it is only a small pool, we get a great sense of achievement at finding this hot spring outflow by river tracing on foot.

Chen notes that in 2023 the hot springs at Jinlun included a natural swimming pool beneath a rock face not far away from where we are. However, in 2024 that area become covered by sediment, and for a while he worried that our trip would prove fruitless. But nature, like life, finds a way, and hot springs can move around.

The mountain and river scenery of the Jinlun Hot Springs is set off by the red Jinlun Hot Springs Bridge in the background. (courtesy of imyeahhi YouTube channel)

Dainty Spa, located next to Jinlun Hot Springs, gives visitors the chance to boil their own “hot spring eggs.”

In search of epic hot springs

In fact there are many wild hot springs located deep in the mountains in places where there is little human presence, and it is no mean feat to find them.

Allen Hung, an aficionado of wild hot springs who shares information about them on his YouTube channel, imyeahhi, has visited all of the wild hot springs in Taiwan that can be reached in a day. He started his explorations at Lisong Hot Spring in Taitung, which has been called Taiwan’s most beautiful wild hot spring. Since meeting his girlfriend Amber Tung, the two have used the YouTube channel to share their hot springs adventures.

Hung states that a list of the ten most epic wild hot springs circulates among wild hot spring lovers. Based on the experiences of previous generations of adventurers collected over more than a decade, it includes the Lulu Hot Springs and the Wushuang Hot Springs. All the spots on the list are located in highly challenging places and can only be reached by experienced mountain climbers. However, in 2021 a team of adventurers found a legendary hot springs site, known only by word of mouth passed down by indigenous hunters, that was not on Hung’s list, and which is considered even more challenging to reach: the Tatahun (or Tadafen) Hot Springs.

Hung and Tung successfully made a trip to the Tatahun Hot Springs in 2024, but only after getting experience with mountain climbing carrying heavy gear and undergoing two or three months of intensive training. Entering the mountains via the Batongguan Traversing Trail, they spent four days hiking 100 kilometers of trails including countless steep and dangerous stretches, before finally returning with majestic video footage and photographs, including aerial drone footage.

Hung relates that Tatahun has a visually striking hot spring cascade that falls through some ten steps, with hot spring water gushing out of the mountainside in the middle to lower levels. It is rare to find ten steps on any waterfall, much less a hot spring waterfall.

After completing the journey in just four days rather than the usual six, Tung reveals that by the time they got back to the trailhead they felt as if their muscles were tearing apart. Nonetheless, being able to experience these majestic hot springs made it all worthwhile. The feeling of accomplishment that wilderness hot spring explorers get from this kind of adventure and challenge is the reason why people find Taiwan’s wild hot springs addictive and memorable right from their first experience.

Chen Jung-wei believes that Taiwan’s high concentration and diversity of wild hot springs can be very appealing to international visitors.

Tatahun Hot Spring features a rare ten-step hot spring cascade. This legendary hot spring site is very challenging to reach. (courtesy of imyeahhi YouTube channel)