Memory and Nostalgia:

At the beginning of Japanese colonial rule in Taiwan, Taipei City was approximately the area delineated by Zhongxiao West Road, Zhongshan South Road, ­Aiguo West Road, and Zhonghua Road. Although the city walls and gates that once lined that border are almost entirely gone now—except for the North Gate (Cheng’en Gate)—they are memorialized in the names of Taipei Metro stations Dongmen (East Gate), Xiao­nan­men (Small South Gate), and Ximen (West Gate), thus leaving their own mark in some small way.

A trip to old Kyomachi-dori

Since the demolition of the eyesore overpass that previously overshadowed them, the North Gate and nearby buildings have become eye-catching landmarks.

Today’s Bo’ai, Guanqian, and Hengyang Roads, known under Japanese rule as Kyomachi-dori, Omote­machi, and Sakaemachi, were booming shopping areas full of general stores. They also formed the political and economic heart of Taipei.

Kyomachi No. 8 Café on Bo’ai Road, diagonally across from the North Gate, is a popular place for young writers to visit. Shih Chien University associate professor of architecture Lee Ching-chih and writer Chang Ta-chun are regular customers. “This area is at the intersection of Bo’ai Road and Yanping South Road. The space between the two roads gets narrower as they approach the North Gate, and shops in that section open onto both sides. From this side you can see the historic post office, while from that side you can see the Futai Street Mansion, so this café has views of historic sites on both sides,” explains Lee.

Lee is an avowed lover of the old city area. “I usually head out the back for some pork knuckle, and then come here for a coffee.” When the weather’s good, he’ll sit outside, looking at the historic sites and sketching. Lee pulls a notebook out of his pocket, a sketch he’s done of the old mansion leaping off the page. “Futai Street Mansion was built in the 1910s, so it’s over a century old. It’s beautifully proportioned, and when you sit and look at it, you almost feel like you’re in Europe.” The mansion, with its handsome stone arches and ­arcade, stood for many years beside the off-ramp from the overpass. Deserted, it was even thought by some to be haunted, yet this neglect allowed its beautiful appear­ance to be preserved.

Looking out across Yanping South Road from Kyo­machi No. 8, one can see—and more significantly, smell—Zheng Ji Pork Knuckle Rice. Even before lunchtime, custom­ers are thronging. The owner is busily taking care of the food, and on every table there are large bowls brimming with rice and vegetables, along with a glisten­ing piece of Dongpo braised pork—the signature dish of the 70-year-old restaurant. Along with all this comes free all-you-can-eat soup.

When the original owner of Kyomachi Café No. 8 signed the lease, the café’s wonderful location was written on the deed in Japanese as “Kyomachi 4-chome 8-ban.”

On sunny days, Lee Ching-chih likes to sit on the promenade of Kyomachi Café No. 8 and admire the beauty of the century-old buildings around him.

Futai Street Mansion is the only remaining free-standing building of its kind in old Taipei. The beautiful pitched roof and stone arches give it a style reminiscent of Renaissance architecture.

Bookstore Street

In the days before the 24-hour Eslite Dunnan bookstore, Chongqing South Road was the place in Taipei to shop for books. More than 100 bookstores lined the street from end to end in its heyday, covering all kinds of publications from novels, newspapers, and magazines to books from China printed in simplified characters and even the most arcane test-prep books. Virtually anything you could want, you could find.

Its popularity even spread outside of Taiwan, with visitors from Japan and Hong Kong heading there to buy books. In an era when no-one had heard of AI or big data, you had to seek out the boss, feet up and reading a newspaper, to find the books you were after. The bookstore bosses were almost as knowledgeable as Google, and if they couldn’t find the book you were after in their own shop, they’d do everything in their power to get you a copy from elsewhere.

The nearby Chengzhong Market is also an important part of the shared memories of many old Taipei residents, as well as a favorite among the older ladies. Crowded with many old stalls selling everything from clothing, accessories, groceries, and fruit to plus-sized underwear and even wigs, it’s a great place to get into a nice long treasure hunt.

Chengzhong Market is a great place to wander and to take a load off while eating a nice hot bowl of douhua, or tofu pudding, as you take in the beauty of everyday life.

Cafés for the literati

Old Taipei’s art and literature salons were held in cafés, where the literati gathered, and the historical associ­ation of coffee with literature lingers to this day. ­Famous for its French duck with rice and exquisite pastries, Bolero is a popular destination for celebrities; Café Astoria, located on the second and third floors of the building opposite the Taipei City God Temple, has delicious cakes and has played host to many star writers, including Huang Chun-ming, Yindi, Lin Hwai-min, Sanmao, and Pai Hsien-yung, while Chou Meng-tieh once set up a book stall downstairs.

With 85 years of history under its belt, Zhongshan Hall is another part of the shared memories of Old Taipei. Important national events like presidential in­augura­tions and meetings of the National Assembly have been held in Zhongshan Hall, including the first drawing of the Patriotic Lottery and receiving foreign guests and heads of state. Li Mei-shu’s first solo oil painting exhibition, Lin Hwai-min’s first Cloud Gate perform­ance, and the Vienna Boys’ Choir’s first performance in Taiwan were all held there. There are now two historic cafés in Zhongshan Hall where you can come and drink in the atmo­sphere of the past. Le Promenoir Coffee on the fourth floor is located in a high-ceilinged gallery with tall windows through which daylight streams in. You can sit by the window and look out toward the North Gate in the distance. The red leather-upholstered seating and the wooden tables complete with table lamps help re­create the ambience of the old days. The Fortress Room Terrace Restaur­ant, on the second floor, is magni­ficently decorated with patterned wallpaper and various items on display to create an elegant atmosphere.

Opposite Zhongshan Hall sits ShangShang Café, another repository of many people’s memories of their younger days. The European-style storefront and arched entrance exude a particular charm. Opening the door, one is met with the warm atmosphere and strong scent of coffee that permeate the small space. Russian borscht, slowly simmered for four hours, is the café’s signature dish, while a plate of fried eggs with thick slices of honey-­topped toast is one of life’s simple pleasures for many older Taipei residents. In addition, the store offers flavorful ­siphon coffee, an excellent choice for coffee connoisseurs.

Zhongshan Hall is another notable landmark in the memories of the people of Old Taipei. Many historical events and meetings have played out there, and the interior styling has the air of days gone by.

Le Promenoir Coffee on Zhongshan Hall’s fourth floor offers an excellent view of the monumental North Gate. With its high ceilings and comfortable seating, it’s a great place to settle in for the afternoon with a good cup of coffee.

The Astoria is a legendary café of old Taipei. It specializes in exquisite cakes and Russian borscht, and its Russian fudge, unique in Taiwan, is made to a secret aristocratic recipe.

Memories of Chunghwa Market

For the people of Old Taipei, a fried pork chop on rice in Ximending was a must-have, and Dongyi Pork Chop on Yanping South Road makes a version of this downhome dish that Taiwanese students studying abroad always missed. The nostalgic 1970s-nightclub-style décor, the warm service of the waiters—all a little on the older side—and the juicy fried chops in their crispy batter have been part of many people’s lives from school through adulthood. As a result, Dongyi Pork Chop is the king of the pork chop world in the eyes and mouths of the locals.

Nestled away in an alley, Liu Shandong Beef Noodles boasts a traditional taste that has remained unchanged for decades. The broth of their flagship pure braised beef noodle soup is made with beef bones, Sichuan pepper, and other spices, making it light and refreshing. The owner will gladly top up your broth, and the beef that accompanies the noodles comes in generous portions.

There are also many things that have long since drifted into memory, gone with the wind. Once Taipei’s busiest shopping center, Chunghwa Market remains an indelible memory for many Taipei residents. It was home to popular stores selling cuisines from all over, from Dim Sum World’s signature potstickers, steamed dumplings, and hot and sour soup, to Shanxi Snack Shop, True Peking Duck, Zhi Mei Lou, Lao Xia Dumplings, Lan Ji Snacks, Shandong Dumpling House, and many more. It was also a popular place for Gen X’ers to buy cassette tapes, classical records, stereos, and walkmans, and if you needed a uniform made, or wanted to buy the latest hip items, Chunghwa Market was the place to go.

A witness to Taipei’s glorious past, Chung­hwa Market became a brilliant memory for the people of this city. While some of the better-known stores shut up shop with the market’s closure, others kept the lights on elsewhere. Like many other memories of Old Taipei, the image of Chunghwa Market at twilight, bustling with customers as the lights flickered on, will undoubtedly remain for ever etched into the hearts of local people.

Chunghwa Market was once the bustling commercial center of Old Taipei, its narrow floors filled with all kinds of activity. (Taiwan Panorama file photo, by Arthur Cheng)